February 20 - Istanbul to Tel Aviv

Shalom friends and family!  Class 40 has had an amazing time in Turkey experiencing everything from ancient cisterns to new age high-tech dams.  We’ve been humbled by an understanding of history and culture we were previously unfamiliar with and collectively know that we’ll never been the same after the time we’ve spent in Turkey’s ancient cities.  Although we don’t doubt it would take a whole lifetime to truly appreciate Turkey, our time there ended today and we departed for a new and exciting adventure in Israel.

Our day started early with a trip to the Istanbul international airport – a place rich in its own culture and diversity.  Airport lines were long on one side for people traveling to Mecca.  After successfully boarding our plane to Israel (a feat in and of itself when traveling with 26 individuals, our plane was unfortunately delayed by 2 hours due to poor weather in Tel Aviv.  It took us the remainder of the day and most of the sunlight hours, but we eventually arrived in our destination, Tel Aviv.  Our view of the city was slightly obscured by rain clouds and a departing sun but we saw a very modern city full of buildings that would rival Sacramento. 

Upon arrival, our group departed on a bus to a Kibbutz nearby the city of Be'er Sheva, the ancient city that Abraham visited some 4,000 years ago.  The concept of Kibbutz started some 100 years ago near the Sea of Galilee.  A group of forward thinking individuals pursued an alternative and sustainable living environment that emphasized community and pursuing joint ventures and shared responsibilities.  We are residing at the Mashabei-Sade Kibbutz. 

Our particular community was settled in 1949 after the Independence War in Israel.  When it was created, members of the community were given a home, clothing, and a job within the community childcare and youth education.  The population also used a shared dining hall and laundry services.  At the end of each month, members received an equal share of the community earnings, despite their status or job title.  In addition, this communal living also included ‘Children’s Houses’ were youth slept under the care of a guard as opposed to living under their parent’s roof.

Opposition to the Children’s Houses and the influence of a capitalistic society has changed the Kibbutz system in more recent years.  All Kibbutzes did away with the Children’s Houses and opted instead for more traditional family practices.  Although the Mashabei-Sade Kibbutz still practices a ‘shared budget’, many of these communes have chosen to do away with this practice and allow for individual salaries to be earned.  In a conversation with Ann Dan, Kibbutz member since 1974, she said, “at the kibbutz, you put in as much effort as you’ve got…and receive back as much as you need”.  The Kibbutz we staid in has approximately 500 people, however they can be as large as 3,000.  We appreciated Ann’s candid comments when we asked about the future of the Kibbutz.  As children are educated, they tend not to return causing an older population and threaten the community’s future. We could have been talking about the family farm as Ag deals with the same issues.  Again, we are finding common ground halfway across the world.   The Kibbutz is a practice of community few of us have experienced and as we learn more about these systems tomorrow, we anticipate a myriad of leadership lessons.  

It’s unreal to think that we’ll be visiting Jerusalem and Bethlehem in the coming days.  How could we be more fortunate?  To all of our loved ones, the group is doing well and missing each and every one of you.  It is an exercise in personal strength to be away and we hope you all know how thankful we are for your support.

 - Missy Borel, Mike Poindexter, Melissa Varcak

February 19, 2011 Gaziantep, Turkey

The day began with a synthesis. A synthesis is where class fellows share observations and is an opportunity to dig deeper into areas or subjects from the previous days seminars and travels. Topics discussed included the following: there is an aggressive focus on industry, the GAP water project will lead to a rebirth of agriculture in Turkey, the country’s streamlined bureaucracy (though flawed) pushing MAJOR infrastructure projects through. Additionally, the class commented how significant history is to the region dating back thousands of years and also reflected on the impact of female university students demanding their rights to choose to wear a headscarf at class, which was denied them until just recently.  Dr. Thomas briefed the class on future travel into Israel as class members had been following developments regarding the Iranian Government’s announcement to locate two battleships to Syria via the Suez Canal. The synthesis ended with some closing comments by Dr. Perry who also delivered some very well deserved awards to fellows for feats accomplished thus far in our travels.

The day also included a walking tour of Gaziantep that included the ancient historical museum of Roman Mosaics, Antep Castle and a bustling Gaziantep Market Bazaar.  The bazaar was a fabulous opportunity to expose the class to the people of Gaziantep.  We saw small shops of various craftsmen offering their wares.  The hardworking coppersmiths, shoemakers and silversmiths offered completed objects displayed out front as they sat behind, working on their next piece.  Their shops consisted of not much more than a 5’ by 20’ space sandwiched between his fellow craftsmen.  It was such an authentic feeling!

A dinner was arranged by Class 40 Mike Poindexter and involved approximately twenty Kurdish Businessman. These individuals represent Turkey agriculture, transportation, petroleum, banking, manufacturing and export. Topics included eco tourism, California agriculture and the current availability water, agriculture real estate in California, the European Union, social and cultural issues and U.S. investment opportunities in Turkey.

The Class ended with a late evening flight to Istanbul from Gaziantep and experienced an aborted landing due to weather and runway lighting malfunctions. The Pegasus Airline pilot made another attempt and we successfully landed arriving into our hotel at 1:00 AM on Sunday.

Erik Jertberg, Jim Shattuck and Jeff Boldt

  

February 18 - Sanliurfa Ancient Sites to Gaziantep

We started our day with a trip to Harran, forty five minutes from Sanliurfa and located in an agricultural valley served by the GAP program we learned about yesterday. Raised concrete water canals are constructed to gravity flow water for irrigation. It seems certain that Harran is one of the oldest continually inhabited  spots on earth with relics from pagan religions and the oldest mosque, church and Muslim university in Asia Minor. The book of Genesis mentions Harran and how Abraham stayed here for a few years in 1900 BC.  We were able to visit their beehive-style mud and straw houses and purchase a few local goods.

Next we were privileged to visit a recent archaeological find in Gobeklitepe that is closed to tourists presently, but sure to be a place the world hears more about. Newly discovered, it is older than any other settlement in the middle east and possibly the world - 11,500 yrs old. What is remarkable about this site, and contrary to former archaeological science, is that the settlement did not center on agriculture, but was founded by hunter-gatherers. Also unusual, the site was entombed purposefully, for reasons yet to be determined. Clearly this preservation has resulted in this ancient site surviving typical damage. It is obvious this region is rich with prehistoric resources, making infrastructure development a challenge. A settlement only 500 years younger is now deep beneath the waters of Attaturk Reservoir.

Upon return to Sanliurfa we had the opportunity to experience the height of noon prayer. The city center is thought to be the birthplace of the prophet Abraham and where he was thrown to the fire and saved by a miracle from God. We climbed to the top of the castle ruins and heard the call to prayer echo from countless mosques in all directions. Men, women and children donned their Sunday best and flooded the markets where we were able to sample delicious street fare and experience the authentic bazaar.

In the afternoon we took the two hour bus drive to the city of Gaziantep and it's technical university. We met with several professors and students from a range of departments.  They welcomed us and shared their insights on the higher education system in Turkey as well as thoughts on the current political unrest in  the surrounding region. We received a tour of the campus that touched upon fine arts aspects including dance and traditional dress. Having enjoyed dinner at a local favorite, we've confirmed the Turkish belief that Gaziantep has the best kabob and baklava in the country.

 - Scott Beylik, Mica Heilmann, Mike Richardson

Ag Leadership Class 40

February 17th - Ataturk Dam, GAP Project, Şanliurfa

Class 40 was accompanied by US Consulate Officials Joseph Babb, Hamza Ulucay, and their security attaché Huseyin Ulular. We piled into the bus at 8am, on our way to the Ataturk Dam. It was an hour plus drive with two surprising full U-turns on the freeway…. We arrived at the Ataturk Dam and were greeted by Gongor Gorkan, the 16^th Regional Director of DSI, the State Water Works for Turkey. His presentation was a look at not only the construction of the Dam, but a briefing on the GAP plans for current and future dams in Turkey. The Ataturk Dam is the 5^th largest in the world, and is one of the 19 Hydro Electric Dams currently in operation. The base of the Ataturk Dam is 960 meters wide and 169 meters high. The excavation site used to build the dam has been converted into a recreational lake and amphitheater. With the material used to build the dam, a wall 1 meter wide and 7.85 meters tall could be built around the entire country of Turkey.  We were lucky enough to take a drive onto the Ataturk Dam, and take a close look at what is possible with a proactive government that is determined to deliver water to agricultural lands.

Our next stop was the GAP headquarters in Urfa. We were greeted by the President of the GAP Administration, Sadrettin Karahocagil. We received a presentation on the economic, social, and cultural objectives and impacts associated with the GAP project. The GAP is a multi-sector project that includes agriculture, industry, transportation, health, tourism, jobs, and social equity programs. The GAP project includes a plan to complete 22 dams; 19 of those being Hydro Electric. The project covers 9 provinces in Turkey, bordering Syria & Iraq. The anticipated cost is 32 billion, of which 23 billion has been expended. Some quick facts on the expected outcomes of the project: 1.8 million hectares of irrigated ground, 22% of Turkey’s energy needs, creation of 3.8 million new jobs, and increase of per capita income of 209%. To date, 80% of the dams have been completed, while the delivery system is only 15% complete. The administration’s focus is to increase delivery of water to the farmers, with a goal of 1.3 million irrigated hectares by 2016.

Back to the bus - we went for a quick trip to downtown Urfa for a visit with Deputy Mayor Fevzi Yucetepe, who oversees social & cultural affairs. Fevzi started by mentioning the recent find of the city of Gobeketepe, which is believed to be the oldest city in the world, dating back 12,000 years. Fevzi went on to discuss the historical nature of the area around Sanliurfa and how the history of the city dates back to Moses walking around as a young shepherd and the claim that Urfa is the birthplace of the Prophet Abraham.  He indicated that it is almost impossible to dig a hole without finding ancient artifacts.  Much building is going on around Urfa as this province is striving to prepare for its future.   In fact, thanks to the GAP project, migration to the area is on the rise.  In response to media portrayal of security concerns in the Middle East, Fevzi indicated that Urfa is a place of tolerance with multiple cultural beliefs living together in relative peace.  He also stated that the people in Urfa are extremely hospitable and any of us would be welcome in their home.

Mehmet Sait Melik, President of the Chamber of Commerce & Industry Assembly, joined us on the bus for a trip out to Isa Sumer’s Ranch on the outskirts of Urfa. As we drove up to the ranch, the first thing we gazed upon was the 1500 year old Armenian church & village. We were greeted by Isa and five other growers from the region. They shared the significant impacts on their farming practices due to the GAP project, including new crops, as well as increased capital investment in permanent crops & equipment. Despite being the birthplace of cultivated agriculture, the growers in this region are grappling with how to exploit their new found resource in irrigated agriculture. After a tour of the farm, our generous host invited us into his 200 year old home for tea and baklava! We loaded the bus in the dark and headed back to home base.

As we all know, most accidents occur within 2 miles of home…Class 40 was no exception tonight! As our mammoth bus was passing through the narrow streets of Urfa, our driver clipped the median and blocked traffic for long enough to raise tempers behind us. The sound of more than 20 impatient cars honking let the locals know, Class 40 has arrived!

Good Night & tune in tomorrow for more Class 40 adventures in Turkey.

 - Bill Hammond, Sarah Reynolds, Yissel Barajas

Feb 16 - Istanbul to Gaziantep to Sanliurfa

Not wanting to waste any free moments in Istanbul, the group decided to squeeze in a few more of the city's unique cultural sights and experiences before we had to depart mid-morning. One group went to the Hagia Sophia. The stunning church is among the world's greatest architectural achievements. It was fascinating to see the layers of history exposed on the walls as the Hagia Sophia was converted from a Christian church to a mosque in the 15th century. The fact it was built over 1,400 years ago is a testament to the sophistication of the Byzantine culture of its time.

The second group opted to venture over to the Spice Market. Here we saw locals and travelers shopping amongst the small, old shops nestled within a rustic, indoor mall. Items for sale ranged from seeds and everyday spices to Iranian saffron and caviar. A few of the class members picked up some unique spices to bring home. I would not pass up an invitation to any of their houses for dinner upon our return!

Everyone reconvened at the hotel at 10am for our bus ride to the airport. We traveled across the Bosphorus Bridge, which spans the Bosphorus Straight that separates the Europe and Asia portions of Turkey. As we neared the airport we all received a first-hand glimpse of the incredible growth Turkey is currently experiencing. Areas that only 10 years ago were undeveloped are now full of hundreds of 20-30 story buildings, with no end in sight. We have been hearing over the past days about the current strength and health of Turkey's economy and our bus trip painted a realistic picture of the country today.

Our flight was smooth to Gaziantep (in southeast Turkey). It was very apparent from the air as we approached the city that we were no longer in Istanbul. Agricultural fields and trees were a welcome sight for us "California Aggies" after days of skyscrapers and bustling streets. The two hour ride from Gaziantep was filled with images of olive trees, oleanders, antep nuts (pistachios to us), and rich shades of black and red soil. The freeway itself was a sight, three lanes of perfectly paved road in either direction. We crossed over the Euphrates river and saw the first hydroelectric dam of our trip. A topic we will delve into much deeper tomorrow on our visit to the Ataturk Dam and visiting with the GAP project leadership.

Upon our arrival in Urfa we all noticed a distinctly different vibe than in Istanbul. Urfa has a population of approximately one half million. The population is divided up between the Arabic, Turkish, and Kurdish cultures. Although all are Muslim, each holds differing political beliefs and attitudes. In Urfa, however, they intermingle in business and society with little faction or hostilities.

We had the privilege of sharing our dinner with Mr. Joseph Babb and Mr. Hamza Uluçay who came from the U.S. Consulate, Adana. They shared their unique perspectives and insights into the region of southeastern Turkey. Mr.Babb is not only a native Californian, but a graduate of UC Davis. We were were treated to not only great conversation, but a delicious meal of the local Turkish cuisine.

Doug Phillips, Kyle Goehring, Karm Bains

Feb 15th - Istanbul

Today was our first full day in Istanbul. We started off the morning meeting our tour guide, Yucel Atik, at our hotel and taking a walking tour of the old town. This included a history lesson in front of the Hagia Sophia museum, also known as the Cathedral of Saint Sophia, which was later turned into a Mosque. Istanbul started out as a Greek colony and eventually became the capital of both the Roman Empire, and the Ottoman Empire. The Hagia Sophia was built in the 6^th century and was originally built as Roman Catholic Cathedral.  When the Ottomans conquered Turkey in 1453, they converted the cathedral into a mosque.  They painted and plastered over some of the religious symbols and mosaics to comply with Islamic traditions of not displaying human figures in a mosque. They believe displays of human figures lead to adultery. They made several other cosmetic and structural changes including the addition of minarets.  It is now a museum and is the only cathedral in the world that maintains artifacts from both Christian and Muslim religions.  It was the largest cathedral in the world for over 1000 years.

Next we walked to the Blue Mosque. We removed our shoes in respect for the Islamic tradition, and walked through the Blue Mosque, which was built by Sultan Ahmed I from 1609-1616. This was and incredible feat that surpassed even the Sultans most ambitious expectations. The mosque derives its name from the 21,073 ceramic tiles within the dome. It is the only mosque in the world that has 6 minarets and is an architectural masterpiece.  Its architect was also part of designing the Taj Mahal in India. The original design and construction included dormitories’, kitchen, and a hospital for the poor. There was also a Bazaar for shopping and is still a working mosque.

After the Blue Mosque we walked to downtown and met with the World Wildlife Fund of Turkey.  The main object of the WWF in Turkey is to conserve the natural resources including habitat and species. Only 8% of Turkey’s farmland is irrigated by newer methods of sprinkler and drip irrigation. The remaining 92% practices surface irrigation that is traditional but highly inefficient.  The WWF is trying to provide education and monetary subsidies to small, local farmers. Their intent is to introduce the benefits of modern irrigation systems to the farmers not only to conserve water but also to increase the efficiency of land use. The WWF predicts that when global warming occurs, Turkish farmers will need to have reduced their water consumption with modern technological practices and alternative crop choices.  The WWF also uses financial resources to provide funding for the Turkish Universities to fund agricultural resource projects.  The WWF is aimed at providing policies for sustainable agriculture while protecting their natural resources.

Our next stop was the U.S. Consulate in Istanbul for an embassy briefing.  The meeting was organized by the Senior Agricultural Specialist, Ibriham, who greeted us.  Ben Hood, an economic advisor for the Department of State, presented a historical perspective to the issues Turkey faces today.   The Commercial Services Department of the U.S. Department of Commerce, explained their role in expanding U.S. exports into Turkey.  The American Consulate General Review of the Agricultural Sector was presented by Rachel Nelson, an Agricultural Attaché. She traveled from the U.S. Embassy in the capitol city of Ankara, with the sole purpose of meeting with our group. Thank you Rachel!  American exports to Turkey reached a record high in 2010 of $2.2 billion. Some key facts regarding Turkey’s agriculture are; the average size of a farm is less then 15 acres, landowners are forbidden from selling land units of less then 20 acres, and agriculture employs 29% of the work force in Turkey.

Our evening was spent at the Grande Bazaar.  This is the oldest and largest bazaarin the world, with more then 4,600 shops. This allowed us to get in a little shopping for family gifts.

Tomorrow we are off to Urfa to learn about the GAP project. Each marker on the map below represents a dam project that is either under construction or planned.

Melissa Duflock, Jim Peterson, and Chris Amble

East Meets West

After a long flight on Air France via Paris, the balance of Class 40, Dr. Thomas, Dr. King and Dr. Perry arrived into Istanbul at 5:00 PM Monday after leaving LAX on Sunday at 4:00 PM. Our flight from Paris was delayed due to computer problems on board the air craft, but we made it in one piece! On approach into Instanbul Airport, we flew over several Russian oil tankers and large vessels waiting for a pilot ship to navigate them through the waters on their way to world markets. We were told that 70,000 vessels use this waterway each year, a critical transportation channel.  Turkey separates Europe from Asia, 95 % of its land mass is in Asia.  We learned from our tour guide, Eugel that Istanbul is one of the largest growing cities in Europe, in 1940 Instanbul’s population was 2 million and today it is 16 million.

On the way to the Old City, the tour bus traveled on the Kennedy Road, built in 1963 and named after the late President Kennedy. The Greeks built Istanbul in 681 BC and it was known back then as the Greek City. Turkey is the second largest country in Europe.

Energy level is high and all classmates are looking forward to our days ahead, as we are exposed to Turkish culture, politics and geography.  During our travels in this country bordering two different Empires, we will be reflecting upon our past leadership experience to prepare us for the journey ahead.

For those of you who are trying to reach us, we are 10 hours of ahead of you in CA.